#AgroEmprendedores | Los ‘roaster’ del café merideño

En su finca, dos jóvenes entusiastas son especialistas en tostado de café, que deleita a los más exigentes baristas y expertos del grano criollo. Realizan su propia cata para reconocer aromas y sabores.

Milagros Palomares

Fotos: Cortesía @cafe.trinidad

Adnoldo Briceño, de 19 años y Edwin Acosta, de 20, son primos, socios y emprendedores. Son los ‘roaster’ (tostadores) del café merideño. Ambos descubrieron la pasión de tostar café profesionalmente en 2016, cuando decidieron concretar sus sueños.

Recién graduados de bachiller tuvieron la oportunidad de estudiar una carrera universitaria en Estados Unidos, pero en vez de emigrar apostaron a sembrarse un futuro en tierra venezolana.

Se confiesan “enamorados del café”, “porque cada día nos damos cuenta que el esfuerzo hace realidad sueños e ideas”.

Adnoldo Briceño, de 19 años y Edwin Acosta, de 20, son primos, socios y agroemprendedores.

“De la mano con nuestro maestro y abuelo Adnoldo seguro buenos frutos tendremos este año, ha sido gran apoyo para nosotros, ya que sin él nada de esta gran aventura estuviera sucediendo”, describen.


En abril de 2016, estos jóvenes merideños registraron la empresa Café Trinidad, con la meta de certificarse en la Asociación de Café de Especialidad, igual que las marcas Café Azul Venezuela, del estado Portuguesa y Caripe Café Gourmet, del estado Monagas.

En la finca La Trinidad, ubicada en el páramo de Mariño, a 30 minutos de Tovar, tienen sembradas 33.000 matas de café. En ese lugar se encuentra su centro de operaciones en donde almacenan la materia prima de cada cosecha, que se obtiene una vez al año. Cuentan con una máquina tostadora, el tambor que enfría los granos, molino y las máquinas para sellar los empaques.

Café Trinidad surte granos tostados a 12 cafeterías de la ciudad de Mérida. Baristas de diferentes partes de Venezuela son fieles compradores. El caraqueño Pietro Carbone, fundador de la Accademia del Caffé, y autor libro Pasión por el Café, quedó seducido por el producto.

“Quién diría que un día estaría con mi compañero de juegos y peleas de chamitos promoviendo y aprendiendo de este mundo tan maravilloso como lo es el café”, cuenta Adnoldo Briceño, estudiante de Contaduría Pública.

“Me encargo junto con los expertos de la administración de la empresa; cada día más apasionado de mi vocación de roaster (tostador) y hasta un poco sorprendido de todo lo que ha sucedido en poco tiempo”. “Estoy pendiente de que el grano de café ya esté seleccionado y listo para tostar. Soy el responsable de que nunca nos falte el gas en la finca, por lo que la planificación y la disciplina intento aplicarlas a diario”.

Su socio y primo, Edwin Acosta, lo acompaña en esta aventura. “Con Adnoldo jugué rugby y hasta apodos teníamos, pero hoy después de un tiempo, lo veo como mi mano derecha y hermano de vida”.

“Me desenvuelvo en la parte de insumos, como los empaques, las etiquetas, materiales de trabajo, también tengo contacto con los clientes y doy mis ideas para dar a conocer la marca de Café Trinidad en las redes sociales”, afirma el estudiante de Mercadotecnia.

Edwin es un curioso de este oficio, pasa horas investigando por internet sobre los grandes maestros del Roaster. Los apuntes no se detienen, igual que las largas horas de conversaciones sobre café con Adnoldo. “Estamos entregados a ser los mejores tostadores de café. No paro de tomar buenos expresos, cada día se aprende algo nuevo”, se enorgullece.

Adnoldo y Edwin iniciaron pruebas orientadas por su abuelo, tostando café en una paila, como tradicionalmente lo hacen los caficultores en las zonas rurales. Luego, adecuaron la maquinaria para realizar este proceso y en dos meses lograron desarrollar el perfil de tostado con el que trabajan actualmente.

Descubrieron que en la máquina tostadora el trabajo más óptimo se completa con rondas de 10 kilos a una temperatura de entrada de 240 grados, en unos 13 minutos. El sabor del café cambia si se tuesta mucho, por esta razón prefieren dejar un grano color marrón, que tendrá un sabor “anuezado”.

Antes de empacar los granos enteros o molidos de Café Trinidad, este par de chicos hace su cata particular para conocer qué notas y sabores se encuentran presentes en el producto que ofrecen a sus clientes y especificarlos en las etiquetas. Así pueden encontrar sabores y aromas a chocolate, nuez, caramelo, frutos secos, sabores frutales, florales y frutos cítricos rojos.

Un roaster se caracteriza por controlar los parámetros específicos del tostado del café, explica Edwin. “Se encarga de colocar el café en la tolva y evaluar el tiempo y la temperatura desde que entra hasta que sale. A diferencia de la persona que lo hace en una paila, éste no está al tanto de controlar la curva del tostado”.

La disciplina y la pasión ha sido la fórmula del éxito de estos jóvenes andinos. “Hemos recibido muchos elogios de los consumidores y expertos en café porque en un años logramos calidad en el producto. Queremos llegar a exportar Café Trinidad, una de las razones por las que decidimos quedarnos y hacer realidad nuestro proyecto es porque queremos rescatar el campo venezolano. Es difícil por la situación económica pero no imposible. Estamos convencidos de que sí se puede dejar de importar café y producir más en Venezuela”, reflexiona el mayor de los primos.

“Al principio fue rudo por la escasez de los plásticos y otros insumos. Gracias a Dios un tío confió en nuestro proyecto y nos financió para comprar la maquinaria”, completa Adnoldo. “Apostar por el campo es una de las mejores decisiones que hemos podido tomar. Cada día superamos obstáculos de todo tipo, pero bien vale la pena y el esfuerzo, no sabíamos la agradable y bonita experiencia. Estamos orgullosos de lo bien hecho en Venezuela”.

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